Everything that goes around, comes around. And that’s certainly true for cooks who are moving away from seed oils to embrace traditional fats like butter, ghee and tallow. Some are going for big flavours while others blame seed oils for everything from inflammation to weight gain to a range of diseases.
But is that true? Well, yes and no. Let’s first talk about the role of fat in the body. Fats are used to make all the cells in our body and to carry, store and absorb vitamins like vitamin A, D, E and K. They also trigger a feeling of fullness to tell you when you’ve eaten enough.
With protein, carbohydrates and water, fats are essential to ensure our bodies perform properly.
WHAT’S THE SEED OIL STORY?
Many people are choosing to limit their intake of highly processed seed oils—like canola, sunflower, safflower, peanut, and soybean and focus on using less refined options instead.
While whole seeds are naturally packed with nutrients, the industrial processes often used to extract their oils—like high heat, bleaching, and chemical solvents—can remove some of those benefits. If you do use seed oils, look for cold-pressed, unrefined, or minimally processed varieties, which retain more of their natural antioxidants and healthy fats.
A Return to Tradition
The hunt for less processed options is what is driving people back to traditional fats again, and to enjoy their rich flavours.
Solid-at-room temperature, traditional fats are more heat stable, making them ideal for higher-heat cooking. Think roast vegetables in duck fat, spices spitting in hot ghee, and rich, flaky lard piecrust.
Butter
Made from the fat and protein of churned cream from cows, buffalo, goats, sheep and yaks, versatile butter is popular as a spread, in baking and for moderate-heat cooking.
Salted or unsalted, creamy butter is rich in fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E, B12 and K2. One tablespoon = 100 calories.
Ghee
Widely used in Middle Eastern and Indian cuisine and Ayurvedic traditions, this type of clarified butter is made by heating cow’s milk over low heat until the water evaporates and milk solids are separated and skimmed off.
Caramelizing the milk solids before straining enhances its aromatic, nutty flavour. Use it to transform scrambled eggs or roast vegetables.
Rich in vitamins A, D, E and K and omega-3 fatty acids, ghee is ideal for people who are lactose intolerant or allergic to dairy. One tablespoon = 130 calories.
Lard and Tallow
Rendered from pork fat, lard is known for its mild, neutral flavour and versatility—think flaky pie crusts and crispy fried chicken—and is popular in southern and Latin dishes.
Tallow is fat rendered from cow or mutton organs. Use it to sear, fry and bake; in gravy; and to bind spices in rubs.
Lard and tallow are sources of vitamins A, D, E and K. One tablespoon = 115 calories.
Poultry Fats
Schmaltz (rendered chicken, duck or goose fat), popular in Eastern European cuisine, is popular with chefs for its depth of luxurious flavour and the crispiness it brings to roast potatoes, root vegetables and even popcorn. It’s also use in hearty stews, for potato pancakes and as a spread.
Trace amounts of vitamins A and D are found in poultry fats. One tablespoon = 120 calories.
Quality Counts
No matter what kind of oil, the more it’s processed and refined, the lower its nutrition.
Buy pure, cold-pressed, extra-virgin seed oils—ideally organic and non-GMO. Do not cook on high heat or re-use.
When buying traditional animal fats, look for pure, un-hydrogenated options. Better yet, make your own.
Of all the food groups, fat has the most calories.
Eat in moderation as a part of a well-balanced diet.
This article was published in The Good Life.
